Under feathered clouds called a 'mackerel sky,' Washington, D.C. fish mongers stock their market trays with ice and seafood before the first customers arrive for the market's 7:30 a.m. opening. Located in the Southwest DC area known locally as 'the Wharf,' the fish market has operated at these docks since 1805.
Once a place for a cooked-to-order meals available at a moment's notice, the pandemic has shifted market operations. New health guidelines require cooked seafood to be ordered in advance, while immediate purchase of raw fish and seafood is still permitted.
An employee of Jesse Taylor's Seafood pauses a moment as he unloads the day's fresh catches. Once brought to market on boats, the fish market's wares now arrive by refrigerated truck.
Bruno, another worker at Jesse Taylor's, shows off whole fishes. Jesse Taylor's Seafood occupies three separate stalls in the market, selling whole fish and fillets.
Each monger at the fish market offers free fish cleaning for customers. Whole fish are beheaded, scaled and gutted quickly with electric knives and scalers. A tip is asked in return for the bloody work.
Saltwater Seafood, one of the market's smallest vendors, bags up a local favorite, live crabs. Crabs are separated for sale by gender and size.
At Captain White's Chesapeake Seafood, a fish monger measures out shrimp. Boils--usually shrimp and crabs, and a favorite from Baltimore to Northern Virginia--are almost always seasoned with Old Bay brand spices.
Jack, a 27-year employee with Captain White's, strikes a light-hearted pose behind the market trays. It is a playful moment in an otherwise somber day--the present Captain White of this generations-old family business was killed in a traffic accident earlier that week.
Porter, a security guard, is a new presence at the market. He keeps customers social distanced and moving in one direction, from entrance to exit.
Neon glows on the restaurants surrounding the fish market. As the market closes for the day, its stream of customers from nearby streets is replaced by young people from surrounding bedroom communities, flocking to the Wharf's new eateries.